Hamburg Nightlife: Winterhude Edition

To give y’all a general update on life in Hamburg, it’s on an upward swing (which I’m terrified of jinxing) as more places are opening up, restrictions are easing, and the mood, in general, is vibrant and energized. In case this is your first time reading a loololo post, I’ll let you in on a not-so-secretive secret:

I’m an incredibly social person. 

I love bringing people together, making genuine connections with kind-hearted and fun-loving people, and hosting everything from small, intimate dinners to large soirees. I just love being around (good) people.

So I have clearly been rejoicing at this mood shift for the summer in Hamburg and packing my social calendar with nights out with friends, bike trips to… everywhere, and run club coffee dates. And while I’m a pretty adaptable human (living on a ship and in different countries has that effect on you), there are certainly some things about social life in Hamburg that have taken some getting used to, after years of living in New York City. For starters, the opening hours at bars and restaurants here are more limited, reservations are imperative, and midnight pizza is just… not a thing. (New York, I love you.)

But what I do like about Hamburg is that each distinct neighborhood has its own social scene, completely different than that of the surrounding areas. And I’ve decided to learn what each one is all about. Starting with the Gossip Girl-esque setting, where Hamburg’s socialites flock on Fridays:

Winterhude.

Last weekend I went to meet a new friend for a drink. We previously met, hit it off, and decided to schedule a proper “Girls Night Out” in Hamburg’s posh Winterhude neighborhood (conveniently within walking distance for both of us). Seeing as most of my time in Hamburg has been consumed by a lockdown, I was very curious to see how a night out in Winterhude would compare with a night out in New York. I knew they’d be different (duh). But I was not prepared for where this night took us.

Where exactly did it take us, you ask?

An italian restaurant.

Yup. 

My friend Flo had mentioned that several of her Hamburg contacts recommended one Italian restaurant, in particular, as being the “it place” for a Saturday night near the popular stretch of Mühlenkamp. Immediately I recognized the name, as I’d also heard the same, but shrugged it off, because the New Yorker in me refused to believe that Winterhude social life revolves around an Italian restaurant. 

I was wrong.

Yes, my friends, last weekend I discovered a very interesting slice of Hamburg social life. The posh, well-dressed folks of Winterhude spend their weekend evenings at terrace tables chowing down on mediocre pasta and sipping overpriced wine. 

And the best part? They have options because Winterhude is packed with Italian restaurants.

As time goes on, the who’s who will pass by, pull up a chair, and stake out a good spot to “be seen.” As I claimed my spot at a table with friends of friends, I was fascinated. First of all, why are there so many Italian restaurants within four blocks? Secondly, why are they regarded as being so special? And how on earth are you supposed to socialize if your tush is glued to a chair with limited space and waiters swirling all around? Funny enough, it turned out to be a very social evening. I watched people pop in and out to say hello to their friends at tables, passersby recognize people they knew and make plans to meet later for a drink, and even total strangers start striking up conversations with the table next to them.

Speaking of later… Later is when the restaurants stack up the chairs and the pasta-filled people move on to the rest of their evenings, whether that be a nearby cocktail bar or partaking in the ever-popular Germanism of grabbing a beer from a kiosk (bodega) and finding a nice spot outside to chill and chat (in Winterhude, it’s a bridge over the sweet canal. And it’s honestly a really nice spot!). 

One of the many things I like about Hamburg is that it’s filled with distinct neighborhoods; each with its own style and main street, of sorts. If I wanted a wild night out, of course, I could have ventured to St. Pauli, which is basically the Brooklyn of Hamburg, and had a raucous evening without an italian restaurant in sight. 

But I wanted to check out what the socialites of Winterhude are doing to celebrate the return of Hamburg nightlife, and I’m glad I did. Because, in essence, these Italian restaurants are the watering hole of Winterhude social life. And while I may not want to partake in the sub-par pasta every Friday night, it was cool to dip my toes into a new scene.

I didn’t expect to come away with much, but as I made my way home along the quiet streets and moonlit canal, I took stock of this “Girls Night Out” Winterhude edition and realized that I came away with German practice, a decent glass of rose, and stories to share with all of you.

So let’s grab something at a kiosk and chat about it on the bridge.

I’ll skip the pasta.